Frequently Asked Questions
The questions that come up most often at intake. If yours is not here, call the shop.
Repair and claim questions
Do you take vehicles that other shops turned away?
Regularly. Length, laminated construction, and unusual conversions are the three most common reasons a general body shop declines RV work, and all three are routine here.
Can you repair a vehicle with prior bad repair work?
Yes, and it is common on owner-converted units and older coaches. We inspect the prior work before quoting because what is behind the panel drives the hours far more than the visible damage does.
Do you work on vintage and classic units?
Yes. Aluminum skin replacement, panel replication, and structural rebuild on vintage trailers and coaches are part of the work. These jobs are fabrication rather than parts replacement.
Will my slide work correctly after a structural repair?
It has to, or the repair is not finished. Slides cycle as part of reassembly testing and we correct alignment before delivery. A slide that does not seal will damage the room again.
Do you handle ADAS recalibration?
Yes, and on any modern van or coach with driver assistance it is required after front-end work, not optional. Returning a vehicle without it is a liability.
Can you work on a unit I am about to buy?
Yes. A pre-purchase inspection is a full systems walk with a written report, priced from $250 to $1,200 depending on vehicle type and complexity. It is the cheapest money you will spend on a used RV.
What if my vehicle is a total loss?
We will tell you honestly if the repair cost approaches the value. Total loss thresholds on RVs work differently than on cars, particularly for custom and converted units that have no real comparables.
Do you offer financing?
Payment terms are the deposit schedule published on the prices page. We do not originate financing, though most insurance work requires only your deductible.