On this page (6 sections)
Hydraulic leveling: pumps, solenoids, and rod seals
A hydraulic system from HWH, Power Gear, or Lippert is a motor-driven pump, a manifold of solenoid valves, and a set of double-acting or single-acting cylinders. Fluid is pushed to extend, and on single-acting designs the jack retracts on spring return or vehicle weight. Nearly every complaint reduces to one of four things: fluid level, a solenoid that is not shifting, a rod seal that is passing, or a control board that has lost a position signal. Working them in that order saves a great deal of money.
The classic symptom is a jack that extends fine and then slowly creeps back in overnight, leaving the coach out of level by morning. That is internal leakage, either past a cylinder rod seal or across a solenoid seat that is no longer sealing. Telling the two apart is a matter of isolating the cylinder and watching whether it holds independently of the manifold. A creeping jack is not merely inconvenient, since a coach that settles unevenly while the slides are out puts the whole body into a twist.
Rod pitting is the reason seals fail. The chrome rod extends into road spray, salt, and grit, and any nick in the plating becomes a corrosion site that then cuts the seal on every cycle. Wiping and lightly lubricating exposed rods before retracting is genuine maintenance that almost nobody performs. Where the rod is already pitted, replacing the seal alone buys a short reprieve, so we quote the cylinder honestly rather than selling a seal kit that will not last.
Control boards fail less often than they are blamed. Most systems have a diagnostic mode that reports which sensor or valve the controller thinks is at fault, and reading that first prevents the parts cannon. What genuinely does fail is the level sensor calibration, particularly after suspension work or a tire size change, and a system that auto-levels to a sensor that thinks flat is one degree off will fight itself indefinitely.
Electric jack systems and their particular habits
Lippert Ground Control and similar electric systems replace hydraulics with a gear motor and an acme screw at each corner, which eliminates fluid entirely and introduces a different set of problems. The screw needs to stay clean and lubricated, the motor draws heavy current, and the whole system is intolerant of a marginal battery. A great many complaints of jacks that will not retract are simply a house bank that cannot supply the current, and the fix is a battery rather than a jack.
Ground contact is the second recurring theme. These systems ground through the frame, and a corroded ground strap or a paint-isolated bolt produces intermittent behavior that looks like a controller fault: one jack that stalls, an error code that changes each time, or a system that works on shore power and not on battery. Cleaning and re-terminating grounds is unglamorous and it resolves a surprising share of what arrives here as a control failure.
The screws themselves fail when a jack has been driven into an obstruction or run to a hard stop repeatedly. A bent screw binds, the motor draws more current, and eventually the plastic gear in the drive head strips. Manual override is provided on every system, usually a drive socket on the motor end, and knowing where it is turns a stranded coach into an inconvenience. We show owners the override on the unit before it leaves, because that is the knowledge that actually matters at a campsite.
Leaf springs, equalizers, and torsion axles on towables
Most travel trailers and fifth wheels ride on double-eye leaf springs over a slipper or equalizer arrangement, and the hardware between those springs takes far more abuse than owners realize. Standard bolts riding in unbushed hangers wear oval, the equalizer starts to cock, and axle alignment drifts until tires wear on one shoulder. The upgrade path is well established: wet bolts with grease zerks and bronze bushings, followed by a shock-absorbing equalizer such as a Dexter EZ-Flex or a MORryde CRE if the ride quality matters to what you carry.
Springs themselves flatten with age and overload. A spring that has lost its arch drops ride height, reduces clearance between the tire and the fender, and transfers shock directly into the frame instead of absorbing it. Comparing measured axle-to-fender distance side to side and front to rear is a quick way to find a sagged or broken pack. A broken leaf will often ride quietly for months before it announces itself, so a visual inspection of every leaf is part of the job.
Torsion axles are a different design with a different failure story. Rubber cords between an inner bar and an outer tube provide the springing, each axle is independent, and there is nothing to service. What happens is that the rubber takes a permanent set over ten to fifteen years, ride height drops, and the suspension gradually stiffens. There is no adjustment and no rebuild in the field, so the repair is a new axle. Owners are often surprised by that, and it is better to hear it early than at the point of failure.
Alignment on a multi-axle towable is real and it is often ignored. Axles that are not parallel to each other, or not square to the coupler, scrub the tires sideways on every mile. The symptoms are feathered tread, a trailer that tracks off to one side, and tires that wear out in a single season. We measure from the coupler to each hub face and between hubs to find the error before anyone starts replacing tires as a theory.
Air suspension and ride quality on motorhomes
Larger coaches on air suspension use bags at each corner or axle, fed through height control valves that maintain a set ride height regardless of load. The most frequent complaint is a coach that kneels on one corner overnight, which is a leaking bag, a fitting, or a valve holding open. Soap testing under pressure finds most of it quickly. A bag that has been run low and chafed against a frame member usually shows the wear mark that explains itself.
Height control valve linkage is a subtle one. The valve reads axle-to-frame distance through a mechanical arm, and a bent or loose arm gives it a false reading, so it holds the coach at the wrong height without ever setting a fault. That changes driveline angles, ride quality, and the effective travel available before the bags run out of it. Setting ride height to specification with the coach loaded, rather than empty, is what makes the measurement meaningful.
Shock absorbers are the most neglected item on any of these platforms. They do not fail suddenly, they fade, and a coach that has always wallowed a little is one that has been on dead shocks for years. Replacing them transforms how a heavy vehicle settles after a bump and reduces the shock load into cabinetry and the body structure. It is one of the few upgrades on this list where the improvement is obvious on the drive out of the lot.
What is included
- System diagnostic and fault code read
- Controller diagnostics pulled and sensor calibration verified before any valve, motor, or board is condemned.
- Cylinder and solenoid isolation testing
- Each jack isolated from the manifold to separate a passing rod seal from a valve that will not seat.
- Electrical supply and ground repair
- Current capacity under load and every frame ground checked, since weak supply mimics a controller failure.
- Spring, shackle, and equalizer service
- Wet bolt and bronze bushing conversion, equalizer replacement, and inspection of every leaf in the pack.
- Multi-axle alignment measurement
- Coupler to hub and hub to hub measurements taken to find axle skew before tires get replaced on a guess.
- Air spring and ride height setting
- Bag and fitting leak testing, height control valve linkage corrected, and ride height set with the coach loaded.
Signs you need this work
- One corner that settles overnight and leaves the coach out of level by morning
- Jacks that extend normally but stall or refuse to retract
- A slide that has started binding at one corner since the last trip
- Tires wearing on one shoulder only, or feathered across the tread
- A clunk from the running gear over expansion joints that was not there before
- Visibly different clearance between tire and fender from one side to the other
Frequently Asked Questions
My jacks drift down overnight. Is that a leak I would see on the ground?
Usually not. Internal leakage past a cylinder rod seal or across a solenoid seat lets fluid move within the system without any of it reaching the pavement, so the reservoir level stays normal and nothing drips. We isolate each cylinder from the manifold and watch which one fails to hold. That single test separates a several hundred dollar valve job from a cylinder replacement.
Should I level on the jacks or use blocks under the tires?
Both, in the right proportion. Jacks are designed to stabilize and to make up modest differences, not to carry the whole vehicle with the wheels dangling. On a significant slope, blocks or ramps under the tires do the coarse work and the jacks finish it. Lifting a unit fully off its suspension puts the frame into a twist that racks door frames and binds slide mechanisms.
Are wet bolts worth the money on a travel trailer?
On any trailer you plan to keep, yes. The standard bolts run steel on steel in an unbushed hanger, wear oval within a few seasons, and let the equalizer cock over so the axles stop tracking parallel. Wet bolts add a grease zerk and a bronze bushing, so the wear surface is serviceable and replaceable. It also tends to reveal hanger damage that was already in progress.
Can a torsion axle be rebuilt?
Not practically. The springing comes from rubber cords compressed between an inner bar and an outer tube during manufacture, and there is no field procedure to replace them. When ride height has dropped and the ride has gone harsh, the axle is at the end of its service life and gets replaced. The upside is that it is a bolt-in or weld-in job with no alignment adjustment to chase afterward.
Why do my trailer tires keep wearing out on one edge?
Axle alignment, in most cases. If the axles are not square to the coupler or parallel to each other, the tires are scrubbing sideways on every mile no matter how good they are. Bent axles from a curb strike or an overload do the same thing by changing camber. We measure before recommending anything, since replacing tires without correcting the geometry just buys another season of the same wear.
Do you do suspension work on commercial trucks?
Our commercial scope is body, paint, structural, and equipment installation, so suspension and running gear on a work truck goes to a chassis shop rather than to us. On RVs, camper vans, and trailers we do the full range of leveling and suspension work. If you are unsure which category your vehicle falls into, call and describe it and we will tell you plainly.
Related services
- Frame and Structural Repair
Frame straightening, chassis alignment, and welded structural repair.
- Brakes, Axles and Bearings
Trailer brake service, axle replacement, hub and bearing repack.